I’m not going to lie, there are some definite upsides to being a travel and lifestyle writer and getting to sample Tom Kerridge’s fish and chips is one of them.
In what must rank as one of my least-arduous commissions ever, I was despatched to the newly-reopened Dining Hall at Harrods and told to tuck into London’s poshest – and priciest – fish and chips - for Escape.com.au. Read the full story here.
Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge is no stranger to publicity and much has been made of his fish and chips costing upwards of £37. But let’s face it, not many chippies are located in a Grade II-listed dining-room, in the most famous department store in the world…
Kerridge’s Fish and Chips is in a corner of the Dining Hall at Harrods, which has just reopened after a relaunch. The Dining Hall really is a gorgeous space, with soaring ceilings with tiled friezes and shiny brass bars forming the different eateries. You can walk-in, but it’s best to pre-book. Kerridge’s Fish and Chips has a retro-style eat-at bar and a few tables, which were all full, even when we visited on a Monday evening.
So, first, let’s address the prices. Yes, it’s not cheap, but then, what do you expect if it’s in Knightsbridge, let-alone Harrods. Deep-fried market-day fish and chips is £37, battered Cornish brill and chips, £52, or you could go all out and order deep-fried lobster and chips at £80. Grilled versions are slightly less.
We began with starters of pea-fritters and mint sauce, £11 and hash browns and taramasalata, £12. Both were tasty, although our favourite were the hash browns, as the taramasalata was creamy perfection. Next we ordered the Cornish brill, deep-fried with gluten-free batter and market-day fish, which was haddock. We also had sides of “Hardcore slaw” and minted peas, £8.50 each. Both were delicious, as were the three sauces supplied - Matson curry, tartare and pease pudding.
My favourite was the brill, which was indeed brill – flaky, light and perfectly-cooked. The batter was thin and non-greasy, but if I went again, I’d probably order the fish grilled, for £45. The haddock was also light and tasty, with an enormous portion and I would have thought it excellent had I not had the brill.
However, special mention goes to the chips, which were quite honestly, the best I’ve tried anywhere. You may only get around 10 of them in a bowl, but they are just divine. They are hand-cut and triple-cooked and manage chip-heaven of being perfectly crunchy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
Desserts, if you can fit them in, which we couldn’t and anyway, the waiter hurried us away, consist of classic ice-cream sundaes and a house-made waffle. Next time I’d skip the starter and leave room for the pudding.
*I was a guest of Harrods.
The Travel List
Where: Kerridge’s Fish and Chips is located in the Dining Hall, on the ground floor of Harrods, Knightsbridge.
Verdict: We had a delicious meal and yes, it’s not cheap, but comparable to other London restaurant-meals. The chips are worth a visit alone - and you can order those for £9.50.
To book: Visit harrods.com.