First look at Naomi: In Fashion, at the V&A
I review the new exhibition
I love a fashion exhibition and the V&A has curated some stand-out ones over the past few years – from last year’s Chanel retrospective, to its amazing Dior show, before that, plus fun DIVA, all of which I have reviewed.
This year, the museum has gone for something different, staging an exhibition in honour of the long career of Naomi Campbell – the first time they have dedicated a show to one model, says Tristram Hunt, director of the V&A. “So much more than just a muse, Naomi’s career is a story of collaboration… eliciting transformative results,” he says. “The V&A’s honoured to work with Naomi on this exhibition.”
It’s remarkable to realise Naomi Campbell, 54, has been modelling for 40 years and there are clothes from a 1981 Azzedine Alaia dress, right up to her recent catwalk show for Burberry, this year. It’s full of her own couture clothes and memorabilia, plus multi-media displays, so you hear her talk about her memories and how she started out, plus see videos and fashion photography.
The show celebrates Naomi’s legendary “walk” and follows her journey into modelling, from when she was scouted aged 15, through the supermodel years, right up to today. You hear her talk about how she wanted to act and started out performing in music videos for Bob Marley and Culture Club, but after she was scouted by model agent Beth Boldt while shopping with friends, she enjoyed a meteoric rise and just two years later, was a Vogue cover girl. She was the first black model to grace the cover of Vogue Paris.
There are beautiful gowns on display and iconic outfits, including the 1989 Thierry Mugler car-inspired corset, her Vivienne Westwood tartan ensemble and platform shoes worn during her infamous 1993 catwalk fall. The original shoes, with her name inside, were bought by the V&A and they and the outfit are reunited for the first time.
The exhibition includes around 100 items from labels including Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood and Yves Saint Laurent. It’s interesting to see a fashion exhibition from the perspective of a model and Hunt says, “I couldn’t think of anyone else who you could do this for”.
Fashion-lovers will enjoy the exhibition, especially the interactive element where you get to walk like Naomi on the catwalk. I scuttled past, feeling self-conscious and lamenting the fact I’m the same age as her, but look about 80 years older.
The exhibition includes a section on Naomi’s advocacy for equity and social change and doesn’t leave out her headline-making moment when she did community service in New York, in 2007, after being convicted of throwing a phone at her maid. She famously arrived in a Dolce & Gabbana gown, on her final day, which is on display.
The exhibition also includes video montages of many of her runway appearances and beautiful shoots by photographers including Nick Knight, Peter Lindbergh and Steven Meisel, plus Vogue covers, curated by Edward Enninful.
“I’m honoured to be asked by the V&A to share my life in clothes with the world,” Naomi said. Sadly, she wasn’t at the press launch. In conclusion, it’s a small, but mighty exhibition and one fashion-fans will enjoy.
NAOMI: In Fashion runs until April 2025, visit vam.ac.uk